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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family completely surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest restaurant securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.